Sunday, March 4, 2012
I created this bustier last year under the guidance of couture designer Kenneth King. This was the first bustier that I ever finished. And the good news is, it is wearable.
If you are very young and petite, you can choose one of more than a dozen of commercially available patterns. Here is a nice one from Burda - http://www.simplicity.com/p-6786-burda-style-bustier-top.aspx. However, if you need a garment with more substance, a custom construction is the way to go.
This is a close fitting garment that requires tailoring the pattern to your measurements. You must consider the circumference of your ribs, waist, and breasts; you will also need to adjust for the height of your ribs (are you short or long waisted?). This is a project for an experienced seamstress. If you have made a fitted tailored jacket, you can make a bustier.
Several muslins were required, and a dress form was helpful. However, the results were worth it. Now I have a pattern that can be reproduced if I would like to make an evening gown, or a sun dress.
The garment construction is in three layers (lining, wool/felt, and fashion fabric), similar to a coat. And it will keep you warm like a coat. But the garment has boning like a bra. A combination of machine and hand sewing is required. The result is a very close fitting vest that keeps the girls secure and covered.
Kenneth King says that his clients of all sizes can wear this design, and feel confident that their breasts will be supported and there will be no need to tug on the garment as the day progresses. I agree with him, and I recommend that you get his book or take his class. You cal buy his book, Birth of a Bustier, on this website at http://www.kennethdking.com/book.html
What experiences have you had making strapless dresses?